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Pinnacles), a ski and summer holiday area Blatnica is connected hourly by bus from tale characters re-enact their legends as you Oct-May), 3km east of the village, has a more
on the slopes of Ve>ká lúka. Or you can walk Martin (25Sk, 30 minutes) on weekdays, only tour, you can visit the castle at night, or opt traditional layout than many skanzens. Its 50
a half-day climb up the snaky yellow-marked a couple go on weekends. to be lead by vampires (in late August). Sword or so log buildings are huddled close to the
trail. In summer there are fine hikes from fights and medieval marketplace hawkers are stream, as was typical in mountain villages.
Martinské hole on the red-marked trail along standard. Since it s one of the few open year-round, here
the Lú%0Å„anská Fatra ridge. About 11km north ORAVA VALLEY Below the castle in the village there s a you can experience first-hand the harshness of
on this trail, guarding the entrance to the Váh small grocery and a pizza place/beer hall. a snowy winter. The oldest and most impres-
gorge, is Stre%0ńno castle (p378). Penzión Toliar (%589 3124; www.penzion-rosnicka.sk; sive building is an early 15th-century wooden
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The Turiec valley and surrounding hills are The Orava river rises in Poland, twists down r per person 400Sk; p) is a fine grey-and-white church. Ask for the explanatory pamphlet in
not only good for hiking, they re also well set through the highlands west of the High Tatras rococo inn at the foot of the castle. Concerned English.
up for cycling. Bike rental s available at Sport and eventually flows into the Váh river east owners spruce up the lodging and the restau- The street from the village toward the skan-
Markovi%0Å„ (Map p385;%422 3000; www.sportmarkovic.sk; of Martin. Just as the water flows together, rant before every tourist season. On the road zen is lined with privaty and Zimmer frei (free
Oslobodite>ov 6, Martin; per day/week 300/1200Sk;h9am- so have Polish and Slovak customs and lan- to Dolný Kubin, 1.5km south of the castle, rooms) signs. By all means stop by the open
5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat). guage, resulting in the area s Goral culture. Penzión Racibor (%582 3353; www.racibor.sk; Raciborie fire at Koliba Josu (%539 5915; www.kolibajosu.sk;
Martin s information office has a list of The northernmost of Slovakia s regions has 382; r 600Sk; pn) is a newish log lodge with a 469 Zuberec; mains 70-120Sk; pn); Slovak home
the many chaty and privaty (private rooms) scenic villages, with ranks of traditional log fire ring out back for barbecues, and a sauna cooking doesn t get any better. To start, try
for rent, or you could look them up at www houses, some with carved fronts. Other high- for cooking indoors. the fried potato pancake topped with brynd~a
.infoturiec.sk (click ubytovanie to see the lights include one of Slovakia s most photo- Trains bound for Oravský Podzámok re- (sheep s cheese) and crackling, or maybe the
list). The steep chaletlike roof of Hotel Grandis genic castles, a first-rate skanzen and a hiker s quire a change in Kra>ovany (36Sk, one hour, goulash soup made with lamb. Blueberry
(%422 0015; www.grandis.sk; Hrdinov SNP 350, Podstrané; back door into the High Tatras via the Orava s 10 daily), 27km south. %7Å„ilina is a 40-minute dumplings for dessert are a rare treat. The
s/d 2800/3300Sk; pn) conceals a crisp, modern, tributary valleys. onward train ride (48Sk, 18 daily) from there, large log cabin has double rooms upstairs
blue-and-white interior. The restaurant has a The upper valley and five villages were and Liptovský Mikuláa (56Sk, 20 daily) is 45 and cabins out back. Rooms per person cost
terrace, the café a fireplace. flooded by the Orava Dam in 1954. Un- minutes. 290Sk. It s 2km south on the road to Liptovský
To get to Podstráne, take northbound local regulated postwar industrialisation has also Mikuláa.
bus 40 or 41 from the bus station in Martin, blighted some stretches. Because of the steep PODBIEL Zuberec is not on a train line and bus con-
about 4km to the end of the line. The chairlift valleys, regional transport can be tedious. A photogenic little village well known for its nections are sporadic. Two buses a day con-
is 800m from the bus. About 6km north of Trstená on Hwy 59 is a drevenica (log cottages), Podbiel is on your nect to Liptovský Mikuláa (47Sk, one hour).
border crossing to Chyzne in Poland, on the way to and from almost anywhere in Orava. Counter to the usual pattern, more buses go
Ve>ká Fatra National Park road to Kraków. A small museum dedicated to folk customs to Podbiel (18Sk, 20 minutes) on weekends
There are numerous marked trails in the is open only sporadically. From here you can (daily on weekdays, 11 on weekends), from
403-sq-km Ve>ká Fatra National Park (www.sopsr ORAVA CASTLE take a two-hour raft trip (%532 0451; per person where you can switch to a train heading to
.sk/velkafatra), down from the ridge line into the The classic 1922 vampire film Nosferatu fea- 250Sk) down river to Oravský Podzámok be- Oravský Podzámok.
river valley south of Martin. If you re plan- tured the pointed towers of Orava castle (Oravský neath the castle. Traditional plte are poled Centru `portu (%539 5294; Zuberec 449) rents
ning on walking in the area, be sure to buy hrad; %582 0240; www.oravamuzeum.sk; adult/student along by guides dressed up in Goral folk cos- mountain bikes for a song at 120Sk per day.
the detailed hiking and cycling VKÚ map No 140/80Sk; h8.30am-5.30pm Jun-Aug, 8.30am-5pm May, tume. (Want a shorter trip? One-hour trips
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